DAY 1 – Samish Woods Montessori to Colonial Creek Campground
Meeting at Samish Woods Montessori Monday morning the group
arrived one by one with packs loaded and full of anticipation for the upcoming
trip. As parents said goodbye one last time the bus was loaded and we were
ready to hit the road. Heading south to Highway 20 we turned east and travelled
through the farmland and foothills towards the North Cascades. Twisting and
turning as we gained elevation we took a moment to admire the landscape by pulling
off at a viewpoint and peering down into a deep canyon from the highway. With a
new appreciation for the shear expansiveness of the land we were going to be
travelling through for the next week, the transition to our backcountry mindset
had begun.
Arriving at Colonial Creek Campground we drove around for a
while before arriving at a prime campsite. In the spirit of the trip we got
right to business. Setting up tents, divvying out our group gear, and organizing
food for the week we re-packed our packs with their new loads. Feeling for the
first time what it is like to carry a week’s worth of food and shelter on your
back was a little surprising for some of the group. Lugging the packs back into
the bus, we settled in to camp for some down time before cooking dinner.
Hanging up hammocks, carving, and exploring the campgrounds offered the perfect
opportunity for group members to begin getting to know one another. We even had
some time to play card games before cooking up some spaghetti and red sauce
with Caesar salad. Feasting on the pasta we loaded up our bodies with plenty of
calories for our upcoming adventure. A good front country meal before heading
out for a long trip is always a good idea. Cleaning dishes, packing
“smell-ables” (anything that would smell good to a bear) away, and getting
ready for bed we were already getting familiar with the routine that would
guide our lives for the following week.
Gathering before bed, we had a small fire and took some time
to have council. During council we take time for everyone to do a general check
in with the group, talk about our day, and turn our minds towards the next day.
Everyone was in high spirits and excited for the trip. Tim and Steve took some reviewed
what a “backcountry mindset” is and how we can start transitioning our minds to
the backcountry. A backcountry mindset can take many forms from increasing our
awareness of risks and our surroundings, to taking care of yourself and fellow
group mates, to exhibiting good expeditionary behavior, to even just keeping a
positive attitude. After discussing some morning logistics it was time for bed.
Day 2 – Colonial Creek Campground to Perry Creek Camp (5 miles)
Waking up Tuesday was an abrupt transition out of our
relaxed evening. With a boat scheduled to ferry us thirty minutes up Ross Lake
from Ross Dam to Little Beaver Campground, we had a deadline to meet. Despite
talking about this the night before, the group had trouble getting their
momentum going in the right direction. Packing up tents, eating oatmeal, and
washing our dishes stretched into an affair that spent what little wiggle room
the mentors had planned in. However, we cleared camp and hit the road in the
nick of time. Winding along HWY 20 again we admired the deep turquoise-blue of
Diablo Lake as we made our way to the trailhead.
Parking the bus, we unloaded our packs and locked up the bus
for the week. Our 0.8 mile hike down to the boat dock was a good warm up for
the rest of our trip. The first mile with a fully loaded pack often brings a
moment of asking; “Can I really go 35 miles with this thing on my back?” At the
boat launch the group waited patiently for our passage north to Little Beaver
Camp where Little Beaver Valley pours out into Ross Lake. As soon as the boat
arrived, packs were loaded on and the first group got aboard. Unfortunately our
party was just a person too big and we had to ferry north in two trips. The
first group was cruising along in no time. Wind whipping by as the boat’s hull sliced
through the surface of the lake. Mountaintops rising up all around the boat, it
became clear that we were entering a wild place. Arriving at Little Beaver, the
first group hopped out and found a good spot to hang out and wait for the rest
of the group. An hour or so went by as the second group ferried its way up Ross
Lake to join them. With the group reunited we ate some lunch, did one final
pack check, and began our journey up Little Beaver Valley. 
Right off the bat we had to overcome a steep climb full of
switch backs and fallen logs. Gaining elevation we really began to warm up in
the afternoon sun so we took our first water break of the trip. Hydration is a
crucial component to backcountry travel and something we tend to neglect in the
front country. Just like keeping a car full of coolant and oil to keep it
running, we need to keep putting water in our bodies to help us function and
regulate our body temperature. If we don’t, our bodies could fail or overheat
and cease to function. Not something you want to deal with in the backcountry.
Little did we know, this metaphor would hit close to home upon our journey
back.
The boys pushed up the hill and into Little Beaver Valley.
With five miles to go we churned away and arrived at Perry Creek Camp. Upon our
arrival we immediately saw a can of bear spray laying on the ground. As the
mentors checked the bear spray they found that it had been unused and merely
left behind by a previous hiker. Everyone was thankful it had not been used and
discarded, but for a brief moment we all took in the possibility of what could
have been. Just another reminder that in the backcountry we aren’t always top
dog. Pushing further into camp we established our campsite, scouted out a
kitchen, and the mentors set up some bear hangs for the night.
Relaxing by the
river and refilling our water bottles time passed by as everyone was thankful
for being done with the first day of hiking. We soon realized it was past time
to cook dinner so we jumped too it and got our first dinner of the trip
underway. Ramen Noodles Soup with vegetables and hard boiled eggs was on the
menu. Everyone wolfed down their portions and we were off to clean dishes, set
bear hangs, and get ready for bed. With night closing in the mentors began to
feel a strong sense of urgency to get our nightly chores done yet the boys must
have still been in a front country mindset for they took their time and seemed
to be more concerned with telling the next joke than getting the bear hang up
before dark. Luckily Tim and Steve were able to rally the group and, after a
good council debriefing the day, everyone was off to bed to get some rest
before waking up and doing it all over again the next day.
Day 3 – Perry Creek Camp to Stillwell Camp (7 miles)
Waking up at Perry Creek Camp we packed up our tents, ate
breakfast, got our gear together, re-filled water bottles, and hit the trail.
With seven miles to go, we really had to kick it into gear, but some of us were
still getting used to the rhythm backcountry travel and we left camp a little
later than anticipated. Waking up to immediately stuff your sleeping bag up,
roll up your sleeping bad, break down your tent, and pack your bag all before
breakfast is a different routine than we keep in the front country, but an
efficient morning and early start means more time to enjoy the trail and less
chance of getting into camp late and having to rush through camp chores before
dark. Of course this sort of foresight is not a teenage boy’s strong suit, but
these trips really help them begin to understand how preparation and efficiency
on one end of the day can open up time and space at the other.
crossed a handful of creeks. At the floor of the valley it became apparent just
how steep the mountains were to either side. Sheer cliff faces peered down at
us through gaps in the trees as we clambered over fallen trees and made sure to
avoid stepping in the many piles of bear poop we found along the trail. A sense
of true wilderness and remoteness was built during this hike; going further
away from safety after being dropped off by boat in an already remote location.
The further we got along the trail we began calculating time to feasibly get
back to civilization in days rather than hours. Incorporating ourselves into
the wilderness around us, the group truly began to understand what it means to
have a backcountry mindset. A little slip and roll of the ankle means a lot
more than it does on a typical Explorers Club outing. Remembering to slow down
and tune into the land may seem counter-intuitive on a big seven mile push, but
in the wilderness it is vital.
Passing by a muddy section of the trail, the entire group
carried on without a glance down. The mentors, however, took some time to
gather some information. Mud, sand, and other soft substrate is perfect for
picking up tracks and can tell you a lot about who has been there, where they
are going, and how long ago that was. In fact, Steve and Tim were able to find
a distinctive set of black bear tracks heading down the trail the same
direction we were headed. Gathering the group up to remind everyone to keep an
eye out for tracks and sign we reviewed some bear safety and checked in with everyone.
About five miles in to our hike and fatigue was wearing on spirits. Taking
another look at pack adjustments, eating some G.O.R.P., and guzzling down some
water, we were ready to hit the trail one more time. When your bed is on your
back and you don’t eat dinner or sleep until you get to camp there is plenty of
motivation to keep pushing on.
With a strong mustering of the group we pushed on to Stillwell
Camp. After surveying the area we picked a camp site, set up our kitchen, and
divvied out camp tasks. Bear hangs, water filter, dinner prep. Everyone pitched
in and it really felt like the group was working well together. With our rushed
evening the night before fresh in our minds we took advantage of making good
time on our hike and cooked up some Falafel with Vegetables and Cheese. By no
means was this a glamorous meal, but it filled us up and got the job done.
Finishing up cleaning dishes we had just enough time for council and a quick
rundown of tomorrow’s logistics and it was off to bed.
Day 4 – Stillwell Camp to Beaver Pass Camp (3 miles)
Freshly rested, and finally getting into our groove,
everyone packed up camp quickly and gobbled up breakfast in preparation for our
big day. Only having to hike three miles didn’t seem too bad after seven the
day before, but today we were ascending Beaver Pass and had close to 1600 feet
of vertical elevation to gain. Most of the group had mentioned their
uncertainty about this hike given the steep incline, but it was the only way to
get up and out of Little Beaver Valley and over to Big Beaver Valley.
The hike was slow and steady. The only way to get anywhere
while backpacking is one step at a time, and today we just focused on moving
forward. A couple group members were eager to make it to the top and caught a
case of “summit fever” which is when you set an unsustainable pace in the hopes
of just getting to the top sooner. This is a great way to burn yourself out on
a long trip and get the group too spread out. Luckily we all re-grouped for a
water break halfway up and re-adjusted our pace.
As we continued to climb everyone was surprised to see the
terrain level out so soon. Clearly we had come over the pass and were just
hiking another mile or so to camp, but to many in the group there was no way
Beaver Pass was so easy to climb up! It didn’t sink in until we arrived at our
camp and realized we had made it. Out of all the days on the trip, Beaver Pass
was the one that was worked up in everyone’s heads as the hard day.
Surprisingly enough, however, it was the easiest! This was a great lesson in
self-efficacy, and realizing most of the challenges we face in life are a lot
easier than we make them out to be in our minds. After summiting Beaver Pass we
were in high spirits and still had half a day left.
Setting up camp was of course first on the docket. With
extra time on our hands the mentors helped the group set up the bear hangs
themselves. Getting a rope over a branch 20 to 30 feet above is no easy feat,
but at least it provided some much appreciated entertainment for Tim and Steve.
The one downside to having all this extra time was the bugs. Flies, mosquitos,
no-see-ums, and the like were atrociously thick at this camp. While eating
lunch some boys resorted to walking in a circle just to keep moving. The bugs
were a constant, itchy, buzzing, annoyance that stretched everyone’s edge. So
instead of just sitting around camp like a blood bank we decided to get moving.
With bear hangs in place, camp set up, and lunch in our
bellies we decided it was time for some exploration. Bushwhacking along a creek
we headed west in search of a good viewpoint of the Pickett Range. Navigating
off trail is one of the best ways to get to know a landscape. Nearly twenty
miles away from the closest trailhead we were in pristine wilderness. The odds
of someone walking where we walked in the last five, ten, fifteen years are
slim to none. As the boys moved along the creek bed and pushed through the
thick brush, the adventurous spirit was strong and Tim and Steve both felt a
deep satisfaction and gratitude for getting to bring this group out in the
thick of it and experience a wild place in such an immersive fashion.
Back at camp it was time for dinner; Quinoa with Sun-Dried
Tomatoes and Cheese. With a little hot sauce, this dinner hit the spot and
filled everyone up before heading to bed. Of course we did dishes, bear hangs,
etc., but by now this was old news and the group knew the drill. A quick
council to check in about the day and off to bed in the safety of our tents
away from the buzzing and biting bugs.
Day 5 – Beaver Pass Camp to 39-Mile Camp (9 miles)
With our biggest day of the trip (at this time) on the
horizon we had an early wake up, quick breakfast, and were on the trail in no
time. Nine miles to our next camp was a bit daunting, but it was all downhill
so spirits remained high. Today the sun decided to take the day off after
gracing us for the whole trip thus far. The cloudy haze, light mist, and even
spotty showers were a welcome break from the sunshine. The cold and wet that we
felt as we began our hike that day was the same cold and wet that was keeping
the bugs away, so we were grateful for the respite despite a little discomfort.
Pushing along the trail we hiked down into Big Beaver
Valley. Through stands of established forest there were breaks of thick brush
where an avalanche slide had made it impossible for large trees to survive. The
thick brush collected the moisture from the mist and soaked us to the bone as
we waded through the dense vegetation. “Waterproof” is a funny term that the
North Cascades love to defy. We were all thankful it was summer and that we all
had an extra change of clothes in our dry packs.
About halfway through our hike we ran into something that
was rather strange; another human. It had been nearly three whole days that we
had gone without seeing anyone other than our group members. We stopped and
chatted for a bit and found out the fellow hiker was headed off into the
backcountry to summit one of the mountains in the Pickett Range. We asked about
the distance to camp and other pertinent trail information and shared what
knowledge we could about the path he had ahead of him. It is always important
to communicate with other backcountry travelers and check in about trail
conditions, weather, etc. Out in the wilderness a little bit of knowledge of
what’s to come can be a life saver. We said our goodbyes and were on our way
again.
Stopping for lunch at Luna Camp we ran into two more
backcountry travelers. These two fellows were in fact the same two mountaineers
that rode on the boat with the second group and were dropped off at Big Beaver
Valley to hike in and summit another mountain in the Pickett Range. It was fun
to run into some familiar faces but they had to keep going, so again we said
goodbye and finished up our lunches.
Making one last push down the remainder of the trail we
trekked along to 39-Mile Camp. Nine miles down and everyone was feeling it.
Arriving at the camp boys dropped their packs and began, eating food, taking
off boots, setting up their tents. However, Tim and Steve were not quite
satisfied with the campsite. It was not big enough for the whole group and they
were a bit puzzled at this. Re-checking the permit they noticed the group had
been assigned the “stock camp” which was much bigger, more luxurious, and had
excellent access to a beautiful sand bar on the river. Tim and Steve passed on
the news to the group with an extra anecdote about remembering the motto “We
not Me.” Despite the individual desires to shed packs, take off boots, and eat
food, it is vital to make sure the group is on the same page and has arrived at
a consensus regarding the camp before settling in.
At the new stock camp we were met with a big fire ring with
log stump seats, plenty of tent spaces, river access, and a brand new toilet!
Nothing like the ones in our homes, but a freshly cut and built wood privy was
pretty nice after some of the old rotten ones we had been using at other camps.
The typical routine of setting up camp and cooking dinner was underway and
everyone was in high spirits with the wonderful camp we were at. Down by the
river on the sand bar we cooked up the famous Thanksgiving Dinner consisting of
instant mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing, dried cranberries, and turkey jerky.
It was exactly what we needed after such a long hike and everyone stuffed
themselves like a turkey on Thanksgiving. But soon enough it was time to clean
dishes and get ready for bed.
Despite the waning
light, spirits were still high and everyone was laughing, joking, and even
signing songs. Tim and Steve grew anxious when they noticed a lacking sense of
urgency in the group. After cooking such a delicious meal by the river there
was no doubt the whole valley knew we were there and had tasty food. It was
time to get our smellables in order and clean up after ourselves as to not
invite any unwelcome guests. With some “words of encouragement” the boys got
themselves refocused and took care of business. At council that night we
discussed the importance of keeping a keen awareness in the backcountry.
Despite seeing people for the first time in days, we were still a long ways out
in the woods and need to keep our minds sharp and our awareness tuned in to the
present situation. Tim and Steve also congratulated the group on their
impressive trek that day. Everyone really pulled together and knocked out nine
miles at an impressive rate. With our day debriefed it was time for bed.
Day 6 – 39-Mile Camp to Big Beaver Camp… to The Bus…… to
Cascade River Road Pull Out (13 miles)
Waking up with only five miles to hike we felt like taking
the opportunity to really enjoy the beauty of our surroundings before returning
to a more popular and human impacted camp at Big Beaver Campground. After
breaking down camp and eating breakfast, we met together along the sand bar of
the river for a sit spot. With sun rays beating down on us, a cool breeze
coming off of the river, and impeccable surroundings, this was prime time for a
sit spot. Spreading out and settling down, everyone got to spend close to half
an hour sitting alone alongside the river and taking some time for self-contemplation,
gazing at the beautiful surroundings, and just soaking it all in. After our
moments of silence we met back up and Tim took some time to go over “reincorporation”
and what it means to re-enter civilization after so long out in the wilderness.
Without truly noticing it our senses had sharpened, our
awareness tightly tuned into natural cycles and rhythms, our bodies and minds
grown used to a simplified routine of eating, sleeping, and hiking. With so
much going on in our daily lives back home, returning to the chaos of cars,
lights, constant man made sounds, so many humans packed together in a small
place, and an endless list of other oddities, life in the front country can
take some getting used to. The simplest thing like a faucet with running water
becomes an incredible luxury, a juicy hamburger fresh off the grill becomes a
delicacy, and so many different people to talk to, hang out with, or just get
used to seeing everywhere! It may not seem like much, but re-entering
civilization after a week away can have a big impact on a person.
But enough of that, time to hit the trail. Five miles to go
and we felt pretty good, we began to focus on enjoying the journey and not focusing
solely on the destination. Passing through gigantic old growth Western Red
Cedar and Douglas Fir stands was a sight to be seen. Constantly being
surrounded by these massive organisms had made us forget how small all the
trees back home really are and appreciate how incredible of a place we were in.
Along the way we began seeing more hikers; an older couple who visit the valley
year after year and a group of day hikers trekking up from Big Beaver
Campground. It was the latter group who informed us of seeing a mother bear and
her cub about a half mile up the trail. This was big news and we made sure to
thank them, revisit bear safety, and start making plenty of noise as we hiked.
About a mile further down the trail we arrived at Big Beaver Campground and
with no sign of the bear and her cub. Upon arrival we saw a group of boaters
from Ross Lake Resort who were clearly not in the backcountry mindset. Potato
chips spilled everywhere, smoking cigarettes, and strongly scented in perfume,
they were the prime example of how not to
behave in bear country.
We passed them by en-route to our campground and with only a
hundred or so yards to go to camp someone hollered out; “Hey there’s the bear
cub!” Sure enough fifty feet off the trail to our left was a cute little black
bear cub and another fifty or so feet behind the cub was momma bear. The
mentors did a quick assessment and agreed to back away back to the river to
re-assess the situation. Staying calm and moving slowly, the group talked
loudly to the bear reassuring it we were leaving. Luckily neither bear seemed
like they could have cared less about us as. Once at a safe distance we hiked
back to the river and came up with a game plan. Hiking to the campground to
cook dinner would be a risky endeavor with momma bear around. Waiting for momma
bear to leave would be an open ended endeavor. Where a hike seven miles around
Sourdough Mountain in the evening would be a strenuous endeavor. Feeling more
comfortable with the evening hike than the momma bear, Tim and Steve made the
call to hike out to the bus.
Gathering the group back up the mentors informed them of the
decision and it was well received with no complaints whatsoever. Rallying for a
big hike out we gulped down some water, ate some G.O.R.P., and pushed on. Tacking
on another seven miles to our five previous miles plus nearly another mile up
to the bus after crossing Ross Dam was putting us just around thirteen miles
for the day which is, by anyone’s measure, a heft day of hiking. The trail led
us over the river, up and out of Big Beaver Valley, and around Sourdough
Mountain before dropping steeply to Ross Dam. The group seemed to kick things
into a different gear and we absolutely cruised through the miles. Perhaps it
was a sense of urgency, perhaps it was the bus at the end, or perhaps we had
just conditioned ourselves to be lean, mean, hiking machines. Whatever the
case, we kept up a good pace and even had time to stop and admire the views of
Ross Lake and the surrounding North Cascades as we rounded Sourdough Mountain. 
Making our way down to the dam we hiked across the massive
concrete structure, admired the magnitude of the drop to the bottom of the dam,
and began our ascent up the final mile of trail to the bus. Of course we couldn’t
end without having to push ourselves up the steep incline out. As we say in
Explorer’s Club; “strong beginning, strong middle, strong end.” Finally at the
trailhead the group was elated to be back at the bus, we dropped our packs and
briefly celebrated before loading up in search of a campsite for the night.
Of course, being Saturday evening in mid-July, there were no
camp sites to be found. Four different campgrounds were all at capacity. We
even tried journeying down Cascade River Road, but had no luck. Finally at
10:30PM, Tim and Steve decided to call it and found a large pull out to park
the bus and set up our tents for the night. Luckily there was a nice little
waterfall a few hundred yards away for a water source. We re-hydrated, ate some
salami and cheese, and went to bed. No time to cook dinner tonight, nor did
anyone have the energy.
Day 7 – Cascade River Road to I-5… to Samish Woods
Montessori
Waking up bright and early, Tim and Steve got everyone to rally
and get their tents packed up and loaded on the bus. We drove to the day use
area at one of the campgrounds along the Cascade River and unloaded all our
gear and cooked our breakfast. After shoveling down some oatmeal we
re-organized our gear, returning group gear back to its proper bin, and getting
our personal gear all together in our packs. With gear squared away we headed down
to the river for some much needed rest and relaxation.
Taking a dip in the river was refreshing and a great way to get
some of the trail dust/odor off of us. The sun was high in the sky and dried us
out just in time for another dip. We even found a log to jump off of into the
flowing river. After feeling cooled down by the water we set up our camp
kitchen and cooked up our last meal for the trip; Fettuccini with Tuna and
Alfredo Sauce. What a great way to end the trip. Sunning ourselves beside the
Cascade River with bellies full of delicious food. Before long it was time to
get together for one last council.
For our last council we all shared our highlights of the
trip; something that was really fun, something that stretched our edge, and an
epic memory that we would never forget. Everyone took a turn sharing and then
we all shared some gratitude with one another for such an amazing trip with
such an incredible group. We really accomplished a lot and pushed ourselves
beyond our comfort zones to find adventure and self-growth.
Loading up in the bus we had just enough time to stop in
Concrete for burgers, a classic backpacker tradition. Filling up on freshly
cooked hamburgers we were really reincorporating ourselves now. One last
stretch of highway to go and we would be home. Unfortunately, nothing was going
to plan at the end of this trip.
As we got on the onramp to I-5 our bus began
to break down. We pulled off to the shoulder and came to a halt just in time
for a buzzer to sound and a plume of smoke to billow out of the from under the
hood. Evacuating the group off the bus, Tim and Steve got everyone safely out
of the bus and well off the highway. Checking under the hood Steve was met by
some flames and coolant vapor. Tim and Steve got together and with fire
extinguisher in hand doused the flames and got the situation under control.
With a few calls to ever vigilant parents we had everyone picked up and
shuttled back to Samish Woods Montessori where our adventure began. I guess if
we learned anything from the last few days of our trip it was to expect the
unexpected and always be prepared for an adventure.
This was truly one of the greatest adventures either Tim or
Steve had been on with a group. Not only was it spectacular to see how the
group grew during the trip and became a highly functioning crew of backcountry travelers,
but getting to share exploring such a wild place with this group was absolutely
fantastic. Finally getting these guys out into true wilderness for an extended
period of time enabled them to fully experience the wilderness effect; what so
much time in a wild place can do to your mind, body, and soul. Everyone was
pushed to their limits at one point or another on this trip but everyone pushed
through and grew because of it. We hope that this trip instilled a greater
sense of what it means to be wild, what it means to be immersed in the
wilderness, and a longing to return to the wilderness in the future to
experience those sensations once more. What an honor it was to be a part of
this adventure and a member of this group. It never ceases to amaze me how the
wilderness can teach so much and guide us down the path of personal growth and self-discovery.Make sure to check out all the rest of the many photos from this trip here!
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