THE OZETTE PASSAGE:
Written by: Steve Keller
For the Firestalkers the Ozette Passage not only marked the entrance into their new life stage, it was also the culmination of years of Earth Skill development on outings and overnights in order to be able to survive, thrive and enjoy in the wilderness. This expedition to rugged North Coast Wilderness would serve as one measure to test the Firestalker’s: skill, trust, group dynamics, self-reliance, courage, endurance, and patience.
A Journey to a Costal Wilderness: Day 1 
After days of food and equipment gathering, expedition planning, and email sending - Stubbs was gassed up and the mentors were ready to go. The Firestalkers gathered at the parking lot of Samish Woods Montessori with their backpacks in hand. We quickly packed up the gear on Stubbs and headed south on I-5 minus one Firestalker, Asher. He was late and with some quick thinking we arranged to have him meet us in Port Townsend on another ferry. Crossing over Deception Pass and then Straights of Juan de Fuca as they surged into the mouth of the Puget Sound was awe inspiring. As we waited at the Port Townsend CO-OP we gave the reigns and itinerary to the Firestalkers, allowing them to brainstorm questions for the rangers and a battle plan for the day. With Asher aboard we headed west as a group to face whatever challenges that lied ahead. We oohed and awed as Stubbs snaked around Discovery and Sequim Bay, taking in some beautiful views of Vancouver Island across the straights. As we traveled we talked about the natural history of this landscape
and remembered the travels of early explorers and naturalists like, Captain George Vancouver and Archibald Menzies who sailed through the lands of the Klallam, Makah, Chemakum, Quileute, Twana and Lushootseed in the late 1700’s.
Arriving at the Olympic National Park Ranger Station in Port Townsend the Firstalkers presented a list of questions to Ranger Scott while they collected our bear canisters and permits. The Firestalkers frantically wrote trail beta and risk management info onto the maps and outlines for the trip. Scott informed us that our journey to South Sand Point the first day would not be challenging enough so he redirected us to Yellow Banks making our first hike a total of 7 miles. We thanked him and had a quick meeting in the parking lot to bring our focus together. We came to the conclusion that we would not have time to stop at beautiful Lake Crescent, for we still needed to collect firewood, find a campsite at Ozette as well as discuss the backpacking plan. 17 miles out of Port Angles we arrived at Lake Crescent which is place known for its brilliant blue waters and exceptional clarity which, is caused by a lack of nitrogen in the water. This inhibits the grow growth of algae making the lake crystal clear. The 12 mile long lake is over 1000 feet deep and is home to the endemic Beardslee Trout and the Crescenti Cutthroat Trout. We heard a chilling tale from Matt about the “Lady of the Lake” and a special process created in its depths called “soapification” which, I’m sure the Firstalkers can give you much more details about. As we passed Lake Crescent we couldn’t resist our urge to swim; hot, sweaty and tired we scrambled out of the bus and suited up. The clarity of the water was incredible. As we dove in, effervescent bubbles continued to rise up long after our splash had settled. We could see the 60-degree slope of the lakebed almost fifty feet below us as it sank into the abyss. We emerged refreshed and ready for a few more hours of driving.
The outer perimeter of Olympic National Park is met by a boarder of National Park logging lands. The
Firstalkers being the ethical harvesters that they are scouted from the windows of Stubbs for an appropriate place obtain fire materials. Searching a clear cut along highway 112 we found a large brush pile ready be burned. We quickly harvested enough dry and downed material, strapping it to the back of Stubbs rolling it up in a tarp. After thanking the land for the wood and doing some service with intermittent Marionberry picking we embarked on our last leg of our travel.
With a little bit of luck we arrived at the Ozette Campground and rolled right into the perfect spot, it was meant to be. One of our nightly lead chefs, Kyler cooked nature burgers over an open fire while the rest of the group organized Stubbs and set up camp. That night around the fire us Mentors held the first focused discussion of what this trip was going to look like and the work that we were here to do. Mentors also provided an open space to discuss immerging adulthood with the Firestalkers so that we could start to wrap our heads around this stage of life. With the door open mentors introduced the purpose of the Ozette Passage and the tone was set for the trip. That night we slept out under the Hemlocks and Spruce getting some much needs rest after an eventful and exciting day of travel.
Headlands and Hurdles: Day 2
The Firstalkers awoke to a sky filed with misty clouds rising off the coast. Even with the signs of rain looming over Lake Ozette and the tents, we were slow to break camp tired from yesterday’s long journey. With a friendly reminder the Firestalkers delegated jobs, group gear was divvied out and the trip was frontloaded with individual and group responsibilities. After filling our water bottles and saying our final goodbyes to amenities like potable water and plumbing the Firestalker’ s circled up and made some last minute backpack adjustments. Crossing the Wilderness Boundary on the headwaters of the Ozette River at 12:00pm, we knew we were in for quite a journey. Immediately the Firestalkers set an eager pace through a forest of towering Western Red Cedar old growth laden with Deer Fern and Bunchberry; the mentors however lagged behind keeping a steady and rhythmic gate. The mentors suspected that the motive behind the hasty pace was the Firestalker’s growing awareness of their
subjugation to the tides. When one enters wilderness he or she becomes subject to its natural order and can choose to fight it or harmonize with it. The tides would dictate our travel throughout this trip, if we were calculated and aware we could harmonize with them and our travel would be fluid and straightforward.
As the Cedar groves slowly gave way to a clearing of bog and wetland some of the frontrunners of the pack started to get to far ahead creating an accordion like effect within the group. After about mile of this the group circled up and discussed what it means to be a responsible group member and how to stay together. Pulling out the map and the tidal charts, Kyle, our Front Scout, realized that we had 6 miles left to reach Yellow Banks Campsite as well as headland crossing at the 5.5 mile mark. Upon reading further beta Kyle concluded that a “headland crossings must passed two hours before or after the specified danger tidal height.” Soren looked at the clock and said, “It’s 1:15 and we have a 8.43ft tide at 5:43pm with 5.5 miles to go before the headland. We need to get going.” After a few more miles of Boardwalk the Firestalkers noticed a dramatic change in the forest ecosystem and entered a coastline dominated by ancient Sitka Spruce and head high Salal. We started to feel the salty ocean breeze blowing through the trees as we dropped into a rugged wilderness coastline with towering sea stacks and crashing surf as its backdrop. All sense of time was lost as we ate and explored the beach basking in a short break in the clouds.
After lunch we crossed over to the south side of Sand Point and we were met with our first
major challenge. A cold Northeast wind blew across the beach chilling us to the bone, all the while a distant headland loomed as the tide swiftly crashed against the cliff walls. The group discussed the possibility of not making the headland and alternative camping locations. As we drew near, the headlands sharp cliffs rose directly from the rocky headwall. Through the binoculars James could see that we would need to wait out the tide. As we looked for a place to rest out of harms way, we heard a Firestalker call out “over here!” we had found a rope ladder that would take us up to the top of a bluff where we could wait out the high tide. As we talked sat a relaxed, it became clear that we were in need of food and we were beginning to run low on water. Through intuition and exploration the Firstalkers scouted and found the South Sand Point campsite where we initially had reservations. This sight had a tannin filled stream running through and it proved to be our only source of water. As low blood sugar and the exhaustion started to kick in we started to become D.I.C.- disoriented, irritable and combative; we knew we needed to eat quickly. After dinner, in the dusk, we discussed the implications and risks of a headland crossing at night with headlamps versus not camping at our designated sight. We decided that it was already much too late to leave and put up camp in the wee hours of the night. We closed the day with a nightly meeting and discussed how we could improve our preparedness and environmental awareness the next day. That night we crawled into our sleeping bags exhausted and content from a full day of challenges and hurdles.
Finding our Rhythm at Sand Point: Day 3
Waking up at South Sand Point we were overjoyed to find that all eight bear canisters and the bear hang had survived through the night. The early birds set about the Camp, collapsing tents onto other slumbering Four Shielders. While we were messing around with our gear, Matt had been having a moment of inspiration over in the kitchen area. Constructing a table out of beach driftwood and washed up ply-board. Matt laid out a paper grid with the four survival needs: food, shelter, water, and fire. This format gave the group a clear understanding of how they could organize, prioritize and complete their daily living tasks efficiently while sharing their workload. The firestalkers used their tool and collaborativly created an excellent plan for the day. By this time the frustration and exhaustion experienced by the group the night before started to set in again. Tensions were still a little on edge and focus was very scattered. A bewildering lack of cohesion and collaboration within the group and more of low blood sugar decisions making resulted in the calling of a group meeting and some focused directives from the mentors. After the Firestalker’s were given the tools and the framework that was necessary to guide the group they started to work together.
It was inspiring to watch the light click on for the Firestalkers, they implmented their clear vision for the day and set about the camp to complete the four needs. For all backpackers alike sometimes even the best-laid plans are derailed by hurdles of direct experience and the need to practice. Within one hour of the meeting the two of the three water purification systems were compromised resulting in a slow process of sanitizing cups and bowls from the previous nights dinner. We ended up eating breakfast at 12:00pm! We found that even though we were quite hungry and tired from meeting survival needs it was important to give thanks before the meal. We also gave Asher a belated birthday circle of appreciation as we sat and shared a chocolate bar to mark the special occasion. Once we had some food in us, we split up the group gear and headed out into the beach. By this time it was 2:00pm, thank goodness that we did have a headland crossing.
Everyone gathered as we finished cooking dinner and gave thanks for the place that we were in and the opportunity to eat dinner and clean dishes while there was still light. As we ate, James and Marcus explained that they had tracked a pair of Bald Eagles which had been waiting on a sea stack close by for over two hours. It seemed like only a few minutes had passed when we saw one of the Eagles closing in on gull over the bay. The gull made swift and fluids maneuvers as it evaded the Eagle’s talons. The first Baldy however had a back up strategy, out of nowhere the second Eagle soared in and dived the Gull. The pair dived repeatedly and relentlessly at the gull until it was exhausted and eventually perished to a pair of razor sharp talons. The male then took the gull to large Sitka Spruce and proceeded to clean it for his partner; this must have been one of his favorite hunting trees.
Highway to Cape Lava: Day 4
Mentors awoke to find camp stirring with Firestalkers busily packing tents and organizing food and packs. Tristan and a few others had already hiked a back to the stream a half a mile to the south and collected cooking water. We ate breakfast with purpose, keeping our 9:30 objective in mind. As we finished eating, a native Columbian Black-tailed Deer (Odocoileus hemionus columbianus)bounded up and stopped five feet away from our camp. Locking eyes with us the deer proceeded to prong directly onto a large fallen spruce tree and prance across it with all the grace of a tight rope walker. At the end of the log he leaped into the Salal and disappeared. Just then we also noticed a Coyote sneaking down the beach in the opposite direction. The spotted youngster was keen to be wary of Coyote because they often hunt the young calves in the spring. In this moment we were reminded we were not the only hunters in the wilderness. As we left camp we followed Coyote’s tracks until we found blood stained sand and an injured Northwestern Garter Snake; he was paralyzed from his mid section down. We discussed whether or not to end his
suffering and decided that it was not our place to determine when his life ended. This fueled a heavy conversation of what it means to take life in the name of our own survival. Interactions with wildlands and the natural order of its biotic community fueled our introspection and reflection into some of life’s bigger questions, through out the day. The Firestalkers are truly arriving at immerging adulthood. In this life stage they will confront the concepts of aging, decomposition and death and find what it means to be self-conscious and aware of their actions within a self and group context. Often certain innocence is left behind from the experience and it takes a lot of focused thought and discussion to process and cope with it.
As we refocused our minds to the task at hand Soren asked for a time check, we realized that we needed to make some headway. In haste we crossed the first headland spread out and disorganized. We needed to listen to the guidelines that the landscape warranted. The Firestalkers pushed on vacillating between periods of excellent leadership and navigation and periods of indecisiveness and disagreement. We decided to have a snack at Wedding Rocks, our last headland of the day. Wedding Rocks were also the templates for forty-four ancient petroglyphs carved with bone, antler, and metal by the Makah people approximately three hundred years ago. The Makah depictions of both pre and post-colonial history are a
testament to the Salish way of life, art and their culture of storytelling. As we explored the rocks Steve called out, “I think it’s a whale!”, and sure enough with a closer look through the binoculars we spotted a Gray Whale migrating south down the coast. It was truly magnificent to see this giant of the sea flourishing in its wild element. We watched the spurts of mist from the blowhole until we were forced off the headland by the incoming tide. As we neared Cape Alava we pushed ourselves further, resting only once more to admire a juvenile Sperm Whale carcass that was decomposing on the beach. We arrived at Cape Alava and feasted on some lunch. As soon as the bear canisters were out of the packs Dave, pretending he was a bear, started attacking one of the canisters. The Firestalkers had to quickly retrieve it before this wild animal pushed it into the woods.
That night around the fire we held another serious council to bring our minds together for the solo and passage. Mentors spoke again of the fears that might arise while out on the passage and purpose of fasting and going without. “The risk out there is real and your fears will test your commitment, will, and patience. You cannot escape your fear out there, these fears will feel as though they are welling up from just underneath the surface of your skin. Tomorrow you will cross the threshold leaving behind everything and be cut off from the familiar. You will stand at the limits of your ego and the boundaries of your influence. Once you are through the threshold you will begin a story with a new identity and a place on Earth free from the moral judgment and culture of modern society. What is no longer important will fade away and what is important can be revealed. You will feel a shift in mindset and will start to become very aware of yourself. As the land reveals itself you will start to feel a part of the whole biotic community. Every action that you take will brings self-awareness and you will have to accommodate, be accountable, and suffer for any consequences of your actions.” (Some of this wording was directly taken from, The Roaring of the Sacred River, Steven Foster and Meredith Little)
We informed the Firestalkers that in the morning they would be put in front of a council of their mentors and peers and asked: Why are you taking part in this? What is your intent? What are you claiming about yourself? What transition are you marking? Without a clear and focused intention statement from each Firestalker, the mentors would not be able to send these arriving adults on there passage. With these questions in mind the Firstalkers went to bed thinking deeply about their own intentions and what they would claim when they were asked.
Marking our Intentions and Crossing the Threshold: Day 5
We woke up to a steady westerly wind with a clear vision for the day; we had a lot of work to do. After camp had been situated and a meager breakfast was eaten the Firestalkers were instructed to hike out to the solo sight and with a bandana, headlamp, sleeping bag and their water bottles. They were to mark the spot where they would fast and tuck in for the night. The mentors offered a little advice, “This place will call to you, expressing something unique about the landscape, your inner self. A landscape that invokes your own personal power and desire for growth.” Other than that the mentors could only offer advice pertinent to the fasters survival. The solo territory was located due east of basecamp. As the Firestalkers traveled out towards their place on the land they passed through a marshy lowland of chest deep grass, crab apple, and willow. As they walked further they became very aware of the distance between the familiar basecamp and coastline and where their path lied ahead. Many found their sights on top and west-facing slope of a ridge dominated by canopy of ancient Sitka Spruce. This was a rugged patch of wildland with a ground cover of head height Sword Ferns riddled with Deer trails, Black Bear scat and endless mysteries.
“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.”
The Road Home: Day 6
At first light the mentors went out to greet the Firestalkers. We were overjoyed and delighted to see each of their smiling faces and we quickly scurried off so that they could make the journey back through the threshold on their own. In a passage the fasters return from the land with stories and newfound gifts that they could bring back to their community. The Firestalkers emerged one by one from the ancient land crossing once more through the tall grass and were meet by the mentors to be reincorporated at the threshold. Once all the Firestalkers had crossed the threshold they broke their fast eating a meager breakfast and giving thanks for their experience. After the tea was poured we met in council to once more, this time to telling their stories. This council process is called, Mirroring for Empowerment. Through the story the teller reaches a greater self-understanding; much like Mirroring for Intention, the mentors reflect the health, wisdom, and strength of their story. Emptiness, solitude, and exposure to challenge create efforts that are genuinely the fasters own. Fasters often find empowerment through their tribulations: weakness to find a source of strength, loneliness to evoke those who are truly loved, boredom to open the eyes of awareness, the Earth to teach centeredness, balance and a sense of harmony with all things,emptiness to produce fullness...
The Firestalkers returned with the purpose of incorporating into a new life stage of immerging adulthood. They found that they hand incredible gifts to bring to their communities as they grew and matured outside of their comfort zone. Included here are just a few of the gifts the Firestalkers found they could give to their communities: the desire to bring compassion and care to others, the courage to address societies tough questions, a strong inner self to engage in authentic and genuine forms of leadership, the ability to providing teaching and shelter for a community, the strength to speak with a confident voice to benefit the self and the whole, and the compassion to forgive and ask for forgiveness. As the firestalkers continue to tell their story to others it will continue to reveal its challenges and opportunities. The firestalkers are now initiated into a community who will recognize and validate their life transition. After we told our stories and dispersed from council we thanked the land and each other for the amazing experience and started on the road home.
As the Firstalkers shouldered their packs to start the long journey back to their community waiting for them in Bellingham, they took on the responsibilities and privileges of their newly founded community role. Hiking back to Stubbs the Firstalkers passed once more through the coastal forest of Sitka Spruce and head high Salal, which quickly gave way to a lush Hemlock shaded forest filled with massive Evergreen Huckleberry and Oval Leaf Blueberry. The Firestalkers hiked quickly with lightness in their step with the goals of pizza and ice cream in Port Townsend. The mentors also hiked with lightness in their steps but their motivation was driven by a looming ferry reservation deadline. We only rested a few two times along the way to appreciate the awe inspiring and expansive Ozette Prairies. Opening our awareness and using our owl eyes we discovered all sorts or rarities such as the Swamp Gentian flower and the Great Burnet, Sanguisorba herb, which is classified in the Rose family. These two plant’s nectars are sought out by a rare and endemic inhabitant of these prairies, the Makah Copper Butterfly. What a treat is was to see such an extraordinary and unique ecosystem.
The mentors would like to give a huge thanks to all parents, Wild Whatcom Staff, on-call contacts, and volunteers for making this trip possible. Without all of your support, effort, and trust we would not be able to guide such wonderful trips. We as mentors are thankful for being provided not only the opportunity to teach but to learn and grow from experiences and interactions with the Firestalkers and the land we work in. It is a humbling it is to find a deep sense of gratification and fulfillment from our connection to this work. We would also like to give thanks to all of the Firestalkers for being the unique and wonderful individuals that you are. As you all step into arriving adulthood the mentors are delighted to know you are strong group of quality individuals who are willing to put in the work and effort towards being genuine and whole individuals. You have all recognized what its means to be valuable, responsible and accountable members of a much larger community than yourselves. Finally we want to give thanks to the Olympic National Parks Department and to the Makah and Quileute Nations for managing this precious stretch of northern coastline and for all its wonderful inhabitants for enriching our experience. The Ozette Coast is truly a wildland where one can explore the wildness of the biotic community and the wilderness of their culture and self-identity.
Please look at the photo gallery for many more pictures